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: : Hi. I actually posted this in the Low and Medium Cost Semis forum, but it's not getting me much info that I need. Here's a quick rundown of my playing style. : : I quit playing pb a few years ago, and I'm just getting back into the sport. My first gun was a malfunctioning piece of garbage, a Stingray. I got rid of it long ago, and lost interest in the sport. Now I'd like to play again, and I'm looking for a new gun. I think I've narrowed it down to a Spyder TL or TL+. I play for fun; I'm not a tournament player nor do I ever plan to be. I also mainly only play in the spring and summer, so I don't need to worry about playing in cold air. I've probably never taken more than 75 paintballs with me during a game -my philosophy is "one shot=one kill." I don't need to fire full auto or anything like that. I am mainly concerned with accuracy. : : With all that in mind, here are my questions. : : Upgrades- : : Could you all give me some simple, low-cost upgrade ideas that would improve the gun's accuracy? By simple I mean new barrels and things like that, no drilling or any sort of specialized work. Oh, and how much would these suggestions improve the accuracy? (For the barrels, from what I've read, the Lapco barrels are higly recommended...yes, no, maybe?) : : Range : : On a stock TL, what sort of practical range does the gun get? (Meaning what's the standard range from which I can fire and expect to hit my target?) What sort of range will those upgrades mentioned above add? : : CO2 Questions : : How hard is it to modify the pressure and speed of the gun? Does the gun perform consistently? Are there any upgrades (reasonable ones...I'm not going to pay 2x what I paid for the gun to get a nitrogen system) that will help even out the pressure and all that sort of thing? : : Maintenance/Reliability/Durabilty : : What are the most common Spyder mechanical problems? How easy or hard are they to fix? Do they stay fixed once repaired? : : : : Thank you all for your help, and please bear in mind that I'm just getting back into the sport, and I'm not up to speed with a whole lot of the technical jargon. If you give me an upgrade, give me a manufacturer name or something that I can go by please. Thanks again! : Well, first off, I think the chose to be made for gun type would be the TL+. That's what I have. As far as upgrades, here is a list of the following upgrades I have added to my TL+ : 16" Smart Parts All American Barrell (gets really good range, and accuracy compared to that stock one. Of course any aftermarket barrell is better than stock. : Shocktech Delrin Bolt - Does not increase accuracy, but does make the gun quieter, and runs smoother. Plus it helps reduce ball chopping. : Those are probably the two upgrades you should do first, barrell, and bolt. Since your gonna pretty much play the sniper role, I don't think that you will need to do much more than that. Except eventually you'll wanna switch over to nitrogen for more consistancy in your shots. Co2 fluxuates too much. : As far as range, the TL+ with the stock barrell is only good for 15 yards. Not very good I'd say. Sure it will shoot further with some elevation, but with that you lose your accuracy cause your not pointing at your target. A new barrell will help with that always. As far as barrell length, I don't care what anybody says about not exceeding 12" and that it doesn't do any good to have a longer barrell. In my experience, it is all on what works best for you, and to tell you the truth, when I put my 16" on, my range increased quite greatly. I was shooting further than my buddy who had a 14" Freak barrell on his Shocktech Autococker. He then went ahead and changed his 14" to a 18" Freak barrell and now he shoots a lot farther than me, and I mean a lot farther, so like I said, don't let anyone tell you that barrell length does not help. It's all on what works best for you. : Co2 - when running co2 you will never have consistancy. Why, cause your running off a liquid that expands into gas. A regulator will help reduce that, but not completely. The more you shoot, the less pressure is in your gun. Stop shooting and the pressure will slowly build back up, but will not be up to the same speed, as when your first chornoed your marker. Plus, heat tempratures will cause the co2 to spike on occasion, probably more that you want it to. : Maintanence - This gun is very easy to maintain. Keep it clean always, and you may never experience any problems. Some problems that I have found is, and this is with almost all spyders, constantly removing your trigger frame will eventualy cause the rear screw hole to strip out. I have had to have mine re-tapped, as well as two of my freinds had that same problem, so be careful with that. Always make sure that your hammer cushin (that thick black o-ring looking thing)is always behind the hammer. If you take your gun apart, make sure your hammer goes in first. My buddy had a problem with his gun not shooting properly when he did that, and it took me a little while to figure out what he did to it. So with that in mind, when your take your gun apart, and I reccomend learning the process of taking everything off of it that can come off, except where your hose connects to your foregrip and bottomline, and learn the entire operation of your marker. This will help you fix it in the event that something goes wrong. I take my gun completey apart every time I play, and I mean everthing comes off. Bolt, barrell, beavertail, front gaurd, ball stopper, trigger frame, foregrip and bottom line assembly, vertical adapter, low pressure chamber, valve assembly, valve pin, springs, bolt, hammer, EVERYTHING, so that your holding nothing but the body. Dont worry about taking that little chrome pin that sits right in front of the valve piece. You'll be there all day doing that. That's the one pin that if you look down the body were your hammer goes in you'll see it running horizontal through the body. Dont touch it!! You'll play hell trying to get it out. Another mechanical problem is leaking out the barrel. This is do to the cup seal going bad. This is the little white piece attached to your valve pin. It should easily unscrew from the pin to be replaced. Your Gun should come with a replacement cup seal, so store it somewhere safe. : Well, I think that I've ranted on a little too much here, so if you have any other questions, let me know. : Doc Roc