Posted by: BodyByHostess on January 13, 2004 at 10:28:43

: Hey, I bought a WGP 2003 cocker not too long back and 100% happy. I'm looking to upgrade the front block, 3way, regulator, bolt, and basiclly the whole nine yards. I was wondering if anyone out there in fairyland could help me out with some of the pro's and con's of different items? : Also this might sound like a dumb question but are all autococker parts interchangable (ie. an outkast with my 03')? Most parts are interchangable with the exception of some parts intended for pre-2K bodies. As far as your 'upgrades' go...most new aftermarket parts are better defined as 'replacements' rather than 'upgrades'. The word upgrade implies some sort of improvement, and most replacement parts will result in only very small or no improvement in performance! If your goal for replacing your current (working) parts is convenience or cosmetics, then by all means replace away! But if performance is what you're after, you'll be very dissapointed with the results after spending a load of cash. Most will agree that one true upgrade is to replace the stock barrel with a better barrel or barrel system. Your 'paint to barrel' match is one of the most critical issues affecting performance (accuracy, consistancy, efficiency), so if you haven't allready upgraded your barrel, go ahead and do that. If you ever play in cold weather, it's worth spending money for a nitro system (but that's not an 'upgrade'). As far as convenience goes, replacing your inline reg and LP regs will give you the convenience of external adjustability, but will not give you noticably better performance. Keeping in mind that once you're set up properly, you should only rarely need to adjust either reg, IMHO just gaining external adjustability does not justify the cost of replacing your regs. True, they are more cumbersome to adjust, but that should be a very infrequent activity! If you're upgrading for cosmetic reasons (you don't like the way your current parts look), replace parts to your heart's content! Many people place high value on how their marker looks and I, for one, won't tell you not to buy something that you want for it's looks, unless I thought you were going to sacrifice performance. Most aftermarket parts will perform very similarly to your current parts. If it's worth spending money to make your marker look better to you, go for it (you can also persue milling/anodizing options)! A little food for thought... Many people 'upgrade' their 3-way hoping to shorten their trigger pull. You'll hear various claims/arguments over which 3-way is the shortest, etc. Here's the bottom line...all three ways have to travel far enough for an o-ring to fully pass over an internal air port. The 'length' of any 3-way is the width of the port plus twice the thickness of the o-ring. So, to shorten the length of a 3-way, it must either have smaller ports or thinner o-rings. Some do, but the difference between the longest and shortest 3 ways on the market is only a fraction of a mm! What's the best way to shorten your pull? Properly use the trigger stops on your frame and time the gun to cycle in that smaller range!

Follow Ups: Re: Another Long response... gregh 17:30:50 01/13/04 (0) Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : : Hey, I bought a WGP 2003 cocker not too long back and 100% happy. I'm looking to upgrade the front block, 3way, regulator, bolt, and basiclly the whole nine yards. I was wondering if anyone out there in fairyland could help me out with some of the pro's and con's of different items? : : Also this might sound like a dumb question but are all autococker parts interchangable (ie. an outkast with my 03')? : Most parts are interchangable with the exception of some parts intended for pre-2K bodies. : As far as your 'upgrades' go...most new aftermarket parts are better defined as 'replacements' rather than 'upgrades'. The word upgrade implies some sort of improvement, and most replacement parts will result in only very small or no improvement in performance! If your goal for replacing your current (working) parts is convenience or cosmetics, then by all means replace away! But if performance is what you're after, you'll be very dissapointed with the results after spending a load of cash. : Most will agree that one true upgrade is to replace the stock barrel with a better barrel or barrel system. Your 'paint to barrel' match is one of the most critical issues affecting performance (accuracy, consistancy, efficiency), so if you haven't allready upgraded your barrel, go ahead and do that. : If you ever play in cold weather, it's worth spending money for a nitro system (but that's not an 'upgrade'). : As far as convenience goes, replacing your inline reg and LP regs will give you the convenience of external adjustability, but will not give you noticably better performance. Keeping in mind that once you're set up properly, you should only rarely need to adjust either reg, IMHO just gaining external adjustability does not justify the cost of replacing your regs. True, they are more cumbersome to adjust, but that should be a very infrequent activity! : If you're upgrading for cosmetic reasons (you don't like the way your current parts look), replace parts to your heart's content! Many people place high value on how their marker looks and I, for one, won't tell you not to buy something that you want for it's looks, unless I thought you were going to sacrifice performance. Most aftermarket parts will perform very similarly to your current parts. If it's worth spending money to make your marker look better to you, go for it (you can also persue milling/anodizing options)! : A little food for thought... : Many people 'upgrade' their 3-way hoping to shorten their trigger pull. You'll hear various claims/arguments over which 3-way is the shortest, etc. Here's the bottom line...all three ways have to travel far enough for an o-ring to fully pass over an internal air port. The 'length' of any 3-way is the width of the port plus twice the thickness of the o-ring. So, to shorten the length of a 3-way, it must either have smaller ports or thinner o-rings. Some do, but the difference between the longest and shortest 3 ways on the market is only a fraction of a mm! What's the best way to shorten your pull? Properly use the trigger stops on your frame and time the gun to cycle in that smaller range! [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]