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WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker

Lengthen the Cocking Rod

In Reply to: Re: Could be OTHER Things posted by Kyle De_Young on November 27, 2003 at 11:54:03:


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Posted by:
Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont
on December 01, 2003 at 18:29:02

There is a set screw in the back end of the cocking rod nut. That is how you adjust it.

Again with your marker UNGASSED....

Your GOAL is:
The cocking rod is screwed finger tight into the hammer. When you pull back on the back block the marker will cock properly - A CLICK! AND the bolt will clear the ball chute.

There should be about 1/32 to 3/32" BOLT TRAVEL from when you hear the CLICK and when the bolt is all the way back and clearing the ball chute.

Remember the hammer spring will push the hammer forward and the cocking rod with it. The cocking rod CAN move the back block AND the bolt forward partially blocking the ball chute. That can be considered 'normal'.

You can just cycle the back block by hand, back and forth from the cocked (sear engaged position) and the full back position.

If it already does this, then you may not need to make an adjustment. Just gas it up and see if the bolt clears the chute when you pull and HOLD the trigger. If it does, shoot some paint through it...

To DO the adjustment:

Remove the cocking rod. NEVER make an adjustment with the cocking rod Installed in the marker.

Put a wrench on the cocking rod nut and loosen the set screw counter clockwise. Then it should adjust by your fingertips only.

Turn the cocking rod nut counter clockwise until you get that 1/32" - 3/32" bolt travel between the sear engaged point and full back position with the bolt and back block assembly.

NOW HERE IS THE MISTAKE WE ALL GET TO DO AT LEAST ONCE! We try to tighten the cocking nut set screw with the cocking rod in the hammer. You put an allen wrench on it and tighten it. Yep it tightens the set screw just fine. But you just jammed the cocking rod so tight into your hammer, you can't remove it by hand. So you can't adjust the velocity screw.

No problem, You just put a wrench on the cocking rod nut and turn it counter clockwise. It breaks free. You cocking nut is loose and your cocking rod is STILL JAMMED in the hammer. Then you make everything WORSE with a pair of pliers or vice grips. Now the shaft, or worse, the threads, are scratched up and STILL jammed in the hammer.

If you wind up there. E mail me back or post here. There is an EASY way to get the cocking rod out before you do any damage.... Don't be embarrassed. We've all done it at least once.

THE IMPORTANT THING IS TO NOT GO THERE IN THE FIRST PLACE...... BENEFIT FROM MY MISTAKES....

Once you think you have the cocking rod nut in the right position, just ever so lightly TOUCH tighten the set screw just enough that it won't move while you ever so carefully, remove the cocking rod with your fingers ONLY on the cocking rod shaft. Then put the cocking rod nut in a vice and tighten away with your allen wrench.
Then reinsert it back in with ONLY you fingers.
Check your cocking rod length one more time, gas the darling up and pop off a few rounds.

NEVER tighten or adjust the cocking rod with a TOOL when it is installed in your marker.


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