Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on September 14, 2003 at 21:51:38

First it is a closed bolt design. Like a bolt action rifle. Nothing is moving while the ball is firing. Thus it is inherently more accurate. I believe there is a general consensus about this. Second, it was the 'original' low pressure marker with a regulator that stepped down the operating pressure to the 500 psi mark and minimized problems with CO2 back in the good old days when EVERYBODY had to use CO2. Low pressure also means less ball deformity during acceleration down the barrel. Less ball deformity as it leaves the barrel means more accuracy as well. This low pressure feature was the foundation of its long standing and current reputation as an accurate marker. But now days LOTS of markers have regulators and run at simular or lower operating pressures. People with stock cockers go out and buy a Low Pressure Valve and spring set and lower their operating pressure from the factory 450-500 psi to sub 300 psi. Low 200's are not uncommon. Then it is down to personal preferences. So here is mine. I play almost exclusively scenerio games and an occasional rec ball open play. They play rain, shine, snow, day, night, with lakes to wade, creeks to ford, and foxholes/trenches with 2 feet of water in them. Not a good place to play with an electro marker. The lower the operating pressure, the quieter it is. It is recocked with a pneumatic oprating system that is much more quieter to operate that a blow back design like a Spyder or Tippman. Unless you get an E Grip, it is a mechanical triggering system. You can play in pouring rain all day without a worry. Just a good cleaning and lube as soon as you get home. I bought my primarily for the quiet operation and all mechanical triggering system in a high end marker. There are many excellent markers out there. Especially the electronic markers. If I was going to get one, I would be looking at an Impulse with the Vision system. I am NOT an rate of fire freak. No appeal. I learned to aim my shots back when we were the only pump guns at the field full of semis and a few full autos... I can get a guys head down just pulling the trigger the old fashion way... But I'd rather just tag him.... The PROBLEM with cockers is short stroking the ball. You try to go too fast and don't pull the trigger fully or completely. The result is a mis fed ball halfway in the chamber when the bolt closes. You can get a 'chop'. Your accuracy is GONE til you get your barrel CLEAN. So an early upgrade is a shorted stroke 3 way which is a BIG help but doesn't eliminate it. The cocker is mechanical so the timing of the bolt opening is mechanical as well. If it is OFF, you have nothing but problems. Read the posts here. The first year of cocker ownership is a love / hate relationship. When it is rock'n, you Love it. When it is acting up and ruining a day of paintball, you Hate it. It can be frustrating until you get to know how it works and learn its little quirks that crop up from time to time. But once you get it 'set'. It stays set until you mess with it or wear something out... The electros do all the timing electronically. When they act up, They just DIE! You are GONE for the day and send it off to the Factory to be fixed. A couple of weeks later you might be able to play paintball again. Cocker repairs and parts are inexpensive and you can do it yourself. Not so the electros. You pay dearly for repairs or for the up front price of those very high end, lifetime warranty markers. So thats the deal from me.

Follow Ups: We have no problems with the Races and Eblades.. Razorpb 14:39:03 09/15/03 (0) Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : First it is a closed bolt design. Like a bolt action rifle. Nothing is moving while the ball is firing. Thus it is inherently more accurate. : I believe there is a general consensus about this. : Second, it was the 'original' low pressure marker with a regulator that stepped down the operating pressure to the 500 psi mark and minimized problems with CO2 back in the good old days when EVERYBODY had to use CO2. : Low pressure also means less ball deformity during acceleration down the barrel. Less ball deformity as it leaves the barrel means more accuracy as well. : This low pressure feature was the foundation of its long standing and current reputation as an accurate marker. : But now days LOTS of markers have regulators and run at simular or lower operating pressures. People with stock cockers go out and buy a Low Pressure Valve and spring set and lower their operating pressure from the factory 450-500 psi to sub 300 psi. Low 200's are not uncommon. : Then it is down to personal preferences. So here is mine. I play almost exclusively scenerio games and an occasional rec ball open play. : They play rain, shine, snow, day, night, with lakes to wade, creeks to ford, and foxholes/trenches with 2 feet of water in them. Not a good place to play with an electro marker. : The lower the operating pressure, the quieter it is. It is recocked with a pneumatic oprating system that is much more quieter to operate that a blow back design like a Spyder or Tippman. : Unless you get an E Grip, it is a mechanical triggering system. You can play in pouring rain all day without a worry. Just a good cleaning and lube as soon as you get home. : I bought my primarily for the quiet operation and all mechanical triggering system in a high end marker. : There are many excellent markers out there. Especially the electronic markers. If I was going to get one, I would be looking at an Impulse with the Vision system. : I am NOT an rate of fire freak. No appeal. I learned to aim my shots back when we were the only pump guns at the field full of semis and a few full autos... I can get a guys head down just pulling the trigger the old fashion way... But I'd rather just tag him.... : The PROBLEM with cockers is short stroking the ball. You try to go too fast and don't pull the trigger fully or completely. The result is a mis fed ball halfway in the chamber when the bolt closes. You can get a 'chop'. Your accuracy is GONE til you get your barrel CLEAN. So an early upgrade is a shorted stroke 3 way which is a BIG help but doesn't eliminate it. : The cocker is mechanical so the timing of the bolt opening is mechanical as well. If it is OFF, you have nothing but problems. Read the posts here. : The first year of cocker ownership is a love / hate relationship. When it is rock'n, you Love it. When it is acting up and ruining a day of paintball, you Hate it. It can be frustrating until you get to know how it works and learn its little quirks that crop up from time to time. But once you get it 'set'. It stays set until you mess with it or wear something out... : The electros do all the timing electronically. When they act up, They just DIE! You are GONE for the day and send it off to the Factory to be fixed. A couple of weeks later you might be able to play paintball again. Cocker repairs and parts are inexpensive and you can do it yourself. Not so the electros. You pay dearly for repairs or for the up front price of those very high end, lifetime warranty markers. : So thats the deal from me. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]