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"The Care and Upkeep of Paintballs":
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Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on July 07, 2003 at 17:48:19
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Found this informative article at: http://www.worr.com/worrpaint.html "The Care and Upkeep of Paintballs": The paint itself does not contain water, so when the shell starts to pick up moisture from the air so does the paint inside. When things start to dry up on the outside, the water in the paint heads for the hills, as well. The whole situation is one of give and take, and handling paintballs correctly can be quite a chore. It is recommended that they be kept within a temperature range of 59-to-86 degree (F) and at 40-to-50% relative humidity. Temperatures and/or humidities beyond either of these ranges will adversely affect their performance. The longer the exposure to these extreme conditions, the less reversible are the effects. But how long is too long? In very extreme conditions, 20-to-30 minutes exposure may be too much. An exposure of 45-to-60 minutes in moderate conditions might be sufficient to change things permanently. Humidity will have less effect if they are kept in bags and securely closed by twisting the bag and tightly sealing with a twist-tie. (But remember the bags have no effect on the temperature). When winter closes in: Try to keep paintballs in a warm car while playing. (Not on the floor directly under the heater fan, but on the seat where the temperature is more even.) In the heat of the summer: Between games, store your butt packs, loaders, and hopper in the air-conditioned car, not in the trunk. (The temp should not be set cooler than 65 degrees or so. Whatever is comfortable to you is probably comfortable for the paintballs too.) What are paintballs made of? The "Fill" of most modern paintballs is a mixture of Polyethylene Glycol, color dye, and occasionally a little wax. Polyethylene Glycol is used in many drug products as a filler and carrying agent. It is non-toxic, water-soluble and breaks down very quickly. The dyes in paint are commercial food coloring dyes, such as you might find on a nutritional label of your favorite cola beverage, although the concentration is rather high. Wax is added to some fills to thicken the "paint" and make it more difficult to wipe. Shells of paintballs are made of the same substance as Tylenol Gel caps, Contact, soft Vitamin pills, etc. All soft-shelled ingested pills are made of the same basic gelatin compound. Different paintball manufacturers use different mixes but it is all based on the same shell technology. All paintball encapsulating machines use this same basic technology. It is not a perfect process, paintballs are not perfectly round and they all have a seam, they are larger at the seam and smaller at the poles. Paintballs will get out of round over time, just from the weight of other paintballs in a case. That's why it is important to follow the instructions of the manufacturer. Softgel encapsulation is not an exact science hence paintballs can and do vary in size from batch to batch and even ball to ball. The shell of a paintball is water soluble, non-toxic, environmentally safe. NEVER FREEZE paintballs! It does not preserve them longer. Optimal paintball storage is 60º in a dry environment with minimal temperature variations. A dry corner of your basement works great. NEVER expose paintballs to High Temps or Humidity: This will quickly expand the paint shell and cause it to "blow" up in your marker. Even brief exposure to hot temperatures and humidity can swell paint quickly. Keep your paint sealed and in the shade whenever possible. Barrels and Paintballs: 1) To hold the gas (CO2 or compressed air) behind the ball so it accelerates efficiently. 2) To guide the ball as it accelerates so it will remain on target as it leaves the barrel. To accomplish these functions the barrel must have a uniform, slippery surface, and its bore must closely match the size of the paint. Barrels are usually made of polished metal because metal can be made into a uniform, slick surface of any desired diameter and length. The metals used are as follows. Brass is inexpensive and easily polished but it is heavy, soft (scratches over time) and tarnishes easily. Stainless steel is an improvement over brass as it is more durable and tarnish resistant but it is also considerably more expensive. Aluminum is popular because it is inexpensive and lightweight, but it is soft and should be anodized to harden its surface before use. In the anodizing process, low friction compounds like Teflon or Ceramics are often embedded in the surface to improve performance and durability. Also, the anodizing can be done in a wide variety of colors and patterns to suit the tastes of the player. Paint-to-Bore match is one of the most important factors in determining the accuracy of a shot. Paintballs vary widely in size, depending on brand and age. If the paint-to-bore match is too tight, you will end up breaking paint often. This will cause the gun to throw the balls wildly until the barrel is properly cleaned. Even a trace of paint residue on the bore's surface will degrade a gun's accuracy. On the other hand, if the fit is too loose, gas will blow past the paintball hurting efficiency. This may give you troubling velocity fluctuations at the chrono as well as hurting your gas economy. Additionally, you'll notice a loss in long-range accuracy as the ball will "rattle" a bit during its travel down the tube's length. On some guns, if the bore is too large for your brand of paint, the balls may roll right out the barrel causing that important first shot to be a blank. Keep in mind if you are playing in hot or high-humidity conditions, paintballs will often swell to a slightly larger size. Likewise, most paintballs swell as they age, so older paint may be slightly larger than it was fresh. In colder climates some fresh paintballs will shrink slightly and this should be accounted for when matching barrels.
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