Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on May 26, 2003 at 09:49:14

The easiest way is to get a electro frame that has adjustments for trigger travel stops. They are a LOT shorter anyway and just might meet your needs. But you have to think twice before you play in the rain or run up the creek with those electro grips. But you are going to keep the stock grip for a 'rainy day' anyway.... In case the electro grip goes down. But I bet you were asking how to do it with a stock trigger frame. The largest amount of excess travel is the trigger going forward. You can reduce it, but you will kiss the use of the safety goodbye. If it doesn't go all the way forward, it won't engage the safety when you put it on. Now take your grip off and look at it while you read this. You can put a stop above the trigger just above the return spring. You have to rig something to take up space on top of it and rest between that and the receiver body. If you drill and tap a hole in the receiver and put in an adjustable set screw, you are likely to develop a permanent leak if you drill that hole all the way into the cavity that holds your valve body. Good luck drilling and tapping a blind depth hole. Plan B is to just put a spacer IN the spring hole above the trigger. It won't go anywhere once you get it in the hole and the grip back on the body. A little wood/plastic peg that you could sand down to the right height would work if it was the right diameter. I'd try taping the peg to a piece of Scotch tape and taping it to the body of the frame just to hold it in place while you install the grip back on the frame. That should take out the forwards excess travel. To reduce the travel behind the firing point, you can do the same by putting an insert peg inside the spring in the bottom if that hole. Round the edges at the top so the edges of the insert won't catch the spring and give you jams or inconsistent trigger pulls. Now you adventurous types could drill and tap a hole all the way through the grip in the center of the spring return hole and put an adjustable set screw underneath. The stock plastic body on a Compact 2000 is about 0.125" thick. Not much to work with and whatever sticks out is right where your finger pulls the trigger. A lot of cutting, fitting, filing, etc.

Follow Ups: Here is PICTURES. Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont 09:58:40 05/26/03 (0) Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : The easiest way is to get a electro frame that has adjustments for trigger travel stops. : They are a LOT shorter anyway and just might meet your needs. But you have to think twice before you play in the rain or run up the creek with those electro grips. But you are going to keep the stock grip for a 'rainy day' anyway.... In case the electro grip goes down. : But I bet you were asking how to do it with a stock trigger frame. : The largest amount of excess travel is the trigger going forward. You can reduce it, but you will kiss the use of the safety goodbye. If it doesn't go all the way forward, it won't engage the safety when you put it on. : Now take your grip off and look at it while you read this. You can put a stop above the trigger just above the return spring. You have to rig something to take up space on top of it and rest between that and the receiver body. : If you drill and tap a hole in the receiver and put in an adjustable set screw, you are likely to develop a permanent leak if you drill that hole all the way into the cavity that holds your valve body. Good luck drilling and tapping a blind depth hole. : Plan B is to just put a spacer IN the spring hole above the trigger. It won't go anywhere once you get it in the hole and the grip back on the body. : A little wood/plastic peg that you could sand down to the right height would work if it was the right diameter. I'd try taping the peg to a piece of Scotch tape and taping it to the body of the frame just to hold it in place while you install the grip back on the frame. : That should take out the forwards excess travel. : To reduce the travel behind the firing point, you can do the same by putting an insert peg inside the spring in the bottom if that hole. Round the edges at the top so the edges of the insert won't catch the spring and give you jams or inconsistent trigger pulls. : Now you adventurous types could drill and tap a hole all the way through the grip in the center of the spring return hole and put an adjustable set screw underneath. The stock plastic body on a Compact 2000 is about 0.125" thick. Not much to work with and whatever sticks out is right where your finger pulls the trigger. : A lot of cutting, fitting, filing, etc. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Spyder ]