Posted by: gregh on June 19, 2003 at 23:43:27

Update I have installed a Full boar collapsible rear cocking system, upgrade springs, and a thunder pig tru-flight QB and the gun is super quiet. I have checked it between the boomstick and tru flight and while boomstick a little more accurate it is louder(if anybody wants to buy an almost new 12" boomstick reasonable let me know I paid 90 would take 60.00 for it) I have also bought a modified bolt(9.99) with the o ring moved back that is supposed to quiet even more and will install tommorow and check to see if there is an improvement. Anyways the verdict is the rear cocking system definitely quiets the gun down a lot and this slick set up where it is flush in the back is really trick looking and does not need a beaver tail as it fits flush and does not stick out at all. I highly reccomend this upgrade makes the gun look sleek, quiets it down and is easier to cock plus you have a rear velocity adjustment. : I don't use BE paint but it works awesome in my son's autococker and is by best the best fit for the barrel and super accurate the stuff from the paintball store like reaper, midnight, and blaze all are worse, but this is not an autococker conversation so I agree that BE paint should not be used in the custom. Yes, I have had the gun apart as I meticuously clean the gun and it was also apart at the shop when the x chamber was installed and they said all internals looked good but I have been toying with changing the bolt O-ring just because of age and have seen people shoot the o-ring right out after time. : Here is an update on my situation from how the gun performs when it has a good fit(I find some paintballs that fit good out of the batch) and does not curve so I think finding a good consistent paint that is not 80 a case(I play for about 7-9 hours every Sunday(usually about fifteen 20 minute games in a large wooded area with 20-30 people) and regularly go through 1000-1200 paintballs add in my son's 1000-1200 and it gets real pricey fast. : Now back to the big question quieting it down. This week I stumbled onto a great deal for an A5 with RT(guy needed $$ was desperate) bought tank, gun(like new), mask etc for $175 and got the original receipt which carries lifetime warranty from the store. Anyways I now want to turn the 98 custom into a super quiet sniper gun for when the game calls for that need and to make it different from the A-5. Is there a web page where there is a suggestion of mods to make internally. I know these things can be made super quiet on CO2 as I have been the victim of one such gun on a few occasions. I am going to get the rear cocking system for sure as I notice a difference when I muffle the bolt opening on the side and a sniper barrel what internal tricks can I do and any other suggestions. : Thanks for all the replies. : : Ok, first off, distance is a matter of velocity. Faster it goes the farther it goes. The ONLY way you'll get it to go farther is the flatline. It just makes my head hurt when I hear guys talk about how good of a range their gun has when they all have to be set to 260-280fps. As for your problem: Have you opened this thing up to take a look inside? There might be a piece of something stuck in there blocking part of the front bolt opening and creating turbulance. Also, make sure the o-ring on the front bolt asembly is in good condition. In fact make sure all the orings are. If air is leaking funny around that it'll put a weird spin on the ball. There are a few other things to check. If you have access to a crono, crono it for several shots in a row. It could be that the velocity adjustment thiny is screwed up and you're getting varying speeds. It could also be something weird with the barrel (some rough patch from the milling or something.) Try putting the stock barrel back on there and seeing if they fly off the same way as they did b4. Yes the stock barrel should be less acurate than the freak, but what you're looking for here is to see if the odd curving is the barrel or the gun itself. I really don't think the solution to your problem is getting a closed bolt gun. Trust me when I say this, a closed bolt system will not make that big of a difference. My m98 with the stock barrel (just to add humiliation to my enemey's defeat) can hold it's own against my friends autococker with a freak kit and I don't have to mess around with a damn 3 way valve. A m98 should be a fairly acurate gun, so if yours isn't, it's most likely a failure in the front bolt assembly or the barrel. Lastly, don't use Brass Eagle paint. It'll break in anything and everything. An Angel would break BE paint. Yesterday I shot 1000+ rounds of PMI outside with dirt everywhere and didn't break a single ball. Last month I shot 100 BE rounds in doors in clean conditions and I broke 5 balls. I am in no way blaming this on my gun. With BE you get what you pay for.

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Anyways the verdict is the rear cocking system definitely quiets the gun down a lot and this slick set up where it is flush in the back is really trick looking and does not need a beaver tail as it fits flush and does not stick out at all. I highly reccomend this upgrade makes the gun look sleek, quiets it down and is easier to cock plus you have a rear velocity adjustment. : : : I don't use BE paint but it works awesome in my son's autococker and is by best the best fit for the barrel and super accurate the stuff from the paintball store like reaper, midnight, and blaze all are worse, but this is not an autococker conversation so I agree that BE paint should not be used in the custom. Yes, I have had the gun apart as I meticuously clean the gun and it was also apart at the shop when the x chamber was installed and they said all internals looked good but I have been toying with changing the bolt O-ring just because of age and have seen people shoot the o-ring right out after time. : : Here is an update on my situation from how the gun performs when it has a good fit(I find some paintballs that fit good out of the batch) and does not curve so I think finding a good consistent paint that is not 80 a case(I play for about 7-9 hours every Sunday(usually about fifteen 20 minute games in a large wooded area with 20-30 people) and regularly go through 1000-1200 paintballs add in my son's 1000-1200 and it gets real pricey fast. : : Now back to the big question quieting it down. This week I stumbled onto a great deal for an A5 with RT(guy needed $$ was desperate) bought tank, gun(like new), mask etc for $175 and got the original receipt which carries lifetime warranty from the store. Anyways I now want to turn the 98 custom into a super quiet sniper gun for when the game calls for that need and to make it different from the A-5. Is there a web page where there is a suggestion of mods to make internally. I know these things can be made super quiet on CO2 as I have been the victim of one such gun on a few occasions. I am going to get the rear cocking system for sure as I notice a difference when I muffle the bolt opening on the side and a sniper barrel what internal tricks can I do and any other suggestions. : : Thanks for all the replies. : : : Ok, first off, distance is a matter of velocity. Faster it goes the farther it goes. The ONLY way you'll get it to go farther is the flatline. It just makes my head hurt when I hear guys talk about how good of a range their gun has when they all have to be set to 260-280fps. As for your problem: Have you opened this thing up to take a look inside? There might be a piece of something stuck in there blocking part of the front bolt opening and creating turbulance. Also, make sure the o-ring on the front bolt asembly is in good condition. In fact make sure all the orings are. If air is leaking funny around that it'll put a weird spin on the ball. There are a few other things to check. If you have access to a crono, crono it for several shots in a row. It could be that the velocity adjustment thiny is screwed up and you're getting varying speeds. It could also be something weird with the barrel (some rough patch from the milling or something.) Try putting the stock barrel back on there and seeing if they fly off the same way as they did b4. Yes the stock barrel should be less acurate than the freak, but what you're looking for here is to see if the odd curving is the barrel or the gun itself. I really don't think the solution to your problem is getting a closed bolt gun. Trust me when I say this, a closed bolt system will not make that big of a difference. My m98 with the stock barrel (just to add humiliation to my enemey's defeat) can hold it's own against my friends autococker with a freak kit and I don't have to mess around with a damn 3 way valve. A m98 should be a fairly acurate gun, so if yours isn't, it's most likely a failure in the front bolt assembly or the barrel. Lastly, don't use Brass Eagle paint. It'll break in anything and everything. An Angel would break BE paint. Yesterday I shot 1000+ rounds of PMI outside with dirt everywhere and didn't break a single ball. Last month I shot 100 BE rounds in doors in clean conditions and I broke 5 balls. I am in no way blaming this on my gun. With BE you get what you pay for. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Model 98 / 98 Custom ]