Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on August 12, 2003 at 20:15:39

The nitro system of your choice. CO2 gives you inconsistent muzzle velocities at best and most often you have shoot down with progressively slower muzzle velocities with each shot. You didn't mention a Motorize Hopper, That would be number 2 on my list. 3 is a Thermal Lense Mask. 4 is spend $80 a case paint that shoots REALLY STRAIGHT. That is why the guy is breaking balls on you from 35 yards away with an autococker and all you can do is get a bounce. It aint the cocker, It is the nitro bottle hooked up to it. Flatlines don't "chop" balls. The barrel is curved. The ball is subjected to considerable centrifugal force PLUS the shearing forces required to get the ball to spin backwards and thus fly 'flat'. The paint just breaks in the barrel from the forces it is subjected to. Between the two, you WILL be shopping for a paint that you can consistently shoot without breaking in the barrel. I'll save you some shopping and just say go buy some Pro Ball. One catch, The reason Pro Ball works (among others as well) is that it has a thick, strong ball shell. Perfect! Right? So now you have it out the barrel, flying in a straight line, reaching out to 'touch' someone, finds them, and promptly bounces off of them because the ball shell is so strong. That is why we call Pro Ball, "Pro Bounce" So any 'range you might have thought you gotten with a Flatline is negated by the considerable shorter 'range' that you can effectly get a break on a player. Flatlines aren't very accurate nor do they extend you 'range' as many believe. You are still stuck with 300 fps like every other barrel and player. Your paint determines how far away you can get a consistent Break on a player. If you scope and bench rest a Flatline, you will find that the pattern strings out Left and Right. And is considerable larger than the same paint, same gun but the barrel you current have. All a Flatline REALLY does is help minimize aiming elevation errors by generally inexperienced and newer players. The result IS you are able to actually HIT opposing players more effectively over a broad range 0-30 yards. You can turn the marker sideway 90 degrees and shoot AROUND TREES. It will then throw curve balls. Very handy for keeping a players head down while you run up to the TREE using it for cover between you and him... Nifty trick I've rarely heard a Flatline owner talk about. It is also handy for cedar thickets and dense brush. In the ceders, go prone. You can pop ankles and make them literally dance. If they go prone, their balls break on the cedar branches as it archs. You can hit them, they can't touch you. Simularly, you only need a 6" diameter unobstructed hole though the brush. You opponent needs 12-18". Again, you can touch them, they can't touch you. Tippman 'Upgrades' are VERY expensive. It is EASY to put as much money in upgrading a Tippman than just going out and buy a high performance tournament level marker like a cocker, mag, etc. Then you can't sell it for a third of what you have invested. THE ONLY Tippman Factory Upgrade I would recommend is the Response Trigger. For Rec Ball and especially scenerio game play, it gives you essentially TWO simulutaneously available fire mode. Semi Auto and a pseudo full auto. On the receiving end is sure doesn't feel like a pseudo anything. It is called put your head down and wait for him to shoot blanks when his hopper is empty and then go bunker him while he is reloading. Depending on the tactical situation you can use one or the other instantly. You can pick and aim 90% of your shots, conserve paint but kick some hiney if the situation calls for it. A huge advnatage over the E - Whatevers that make their markers tournament 'legal' for the 5% of all the paintball players in the country that actually PAY ENTRY FEES to play in tournaments. The rest of us need externally and instantly selectable fire modes just like the famous M-16 and AK-47 that the military uses. We play tactical war games and I wish the OTHER marker manufacturers would figure out why Tippman is selling all those response trigger equipped markers. One downside with the response trigger. Besides keeping you broke trying to buy paint for it that is.... You can't really snipe someone at a long distance by cutting loose on them with a response trigger. Between the recoil and the trigger pushing against your hand, you point of aim is constaintly changing. You can't "Hold" it on a spot like an E marker. For example that knothole in that spool with camo material moving behind it. You'll get him eventually but you could burn a hopper trying to do it. But for covering fire/ suppression fire / repelling a rush or bunkering situation in close quarters, it is a really nice goodie to have at your finger tips. You might be interested in my Auto Rangefinder. It solves the elevation guessing problem. Takes the guesswork completely out of it. You make it yourself. It is low tech, cheap to make, and deadly. Since you no longer need to SEE where you are missing, you don't need to correct your point of aim or watch the guy duck for cover, you don't need to let your opposing player locate YOUR position by shooting Tracer Paint at them anymore. You can use Invisible Paint. What you experience is the guy doesn't duck! He is looking around for those Tracer Rounds trying to see where it is comming from. Now would you call players that don't duck "an performance edge"? Send me an E mail and I get you all the info to do / get all that stuff.

Follow Ups: Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : The nitro system of your choice. CO2 gives you inconsistent muzzle velocities at best and most often you have shoot down with progressively slower muzzle velocities with each shot. : You didn't mention a Motorize Hopper, That would be number 2 on my list. 3 is a Thermal Lense Mask. 4 is spend $80 a case paint that shoots REALLY STRAIGHT. : That is why the guy is breaking balls on you from 35 yards away with an autococker and all you can do is get a bounce. It aint the cocker, It is the nitro bottle hooked up to it. : Flatlines don't "chop" balls. The barrel is curved. The ball is subjected to considerable centrifugal force PLUS the shearing forces required to get the ball to spin backwards and thus fly 'flat'. The paint just breaks in the barrel from the forces it is subjected to. : Between the two, you WILL be shopping for a paint that you can consistently shoot without breaking in the barrel. I'll save you some shopping and just say go buy some Pro Ball. : One catch, The reason Pro Ball works (among others as well) is that it has a thick, strong ball shell. Perfect! Right? : So now you have it out the barrel, flying in a straight line, reaching out to 'touch' someone, finds them, and promptly bounces off of them because the ball shell is so strong. : That is why we call Pro Ball, "Pro Bounce" : So any 'range you might have thought you gotten with a Flatline is negated by the considerable shorter 'range' that you can effectly get a break on a player. : Flatlines aren't very accurate nor do they extend you 'range' as many believe. You are still stuck with 300 fps like every other barrel and player. Your paint determines how far away you can get a consistent Break on a player. If you scope and bench rest a Flatline, you will find that the pattern strings out Left and Right. And is considerable larger than the same paint, same gun but the barrel you current have. : All a Flatline REALLY does is help minimize aiming elevation errors by generally inexperienced and newer players. The result IS you are able to actually HIT opposing players more effectively over a broad range 0-30 yards. : You can turn the marker sideway 90 degrees and shoot AROUND TREES. It will then throw curve balls. Very handy for keeping a players head down while you run up to the TREE using it for cover between you and him... Nifty trick I've rarely heard a Flatline owner talk about. : It is also handy for cedar thickets and dense brush. In the ceders, go prone. You can pop ankles and make them literally dance. If they go prone, their balls break on the cedar branches as it archs. You can hit them, they can't touch you. : Simularly, you only need a 6" diameter unobstructed hole though the brush. You opponent needs 12-18". Again, you can touch them, they can't touch you. : Tippman 'Upgrades' are VERY expensive. It is EASY to put as much money in upgrading a Tippman than just going out and buy a high performance tournament level marker like a cocker, mag, etc. : Then you can't sell it for a third of what you have invested. : THE ONLY Tippman Factory Upgrade I would recommend is the Response Trigger. For Rec Ball and especially scenerio game play, it gives you essentially TWO simulutaneously available fire mode. Semi Auto and a pseudo full auto. On the receiving end is sure doesn't feel like a pseudo anything. It is called put your head down and wait for him to shoot blanks when his hopper is empty and then go bunker him while he is reloading. : Depending on the tactical situation you can use one or the other instantly. You can pick and aim 90% of your shots, conserve paint but kick some hiney if the situation calls for it. : A huge advnatage over the E - Whatevers that make their markers tournament 'legal' for the 5% of all the paintball players in the country that actually PAY ENTRY FEES to play in tournaments. : The rest of us need externally and instantly selectable fire modes just like the famous M-16 and AK-47 that the military uses. We play tactical war games and I wish the OTHER marker manufacturers would figure out why Tippman is selling all those response trigger equipped markers. : One downside with the response trigger. Besides keeping you broke trying to buy paint for it that is.... : You can't really snipe someone at a long distance by cutting loose on them with a response trigger. Between the recoil and the trigger pushing against your hand, you point of aim is constaintly changing. You can't "Hold" it on a spot like an E marker. For example that knothole in that spool with camo material moving behind it. : You'll get him eventually but you could burn a hopper trying to do it. : But for covering fire/ suppression fire / repelling a rush or bunkering situation in close quarters, it is a really nice goodie to have at your finger tips. : You might be interested in my Auto Rangefinder. It solves the elevation guessing problem. Takes the guesswork completely out of it. You make it yourself. : It is low tech, cheap to make, and deadly. : Since you no longer need to SEE where you are missing, you don't need to correct your point of aim or watch the guy duck for cover, you don't need to let your opposing player locate YOUR position by shooting Tracer Paint at them anymore. : You can use Invisible Paint. What you experience is the guy doesn't duck! He is looking around for those Tracer Rounds trying to see where it is comming from. Now would you call players that don't duck "an performance edge"? : : Send me an E mail and I get you all the info to do / get all that stuff. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Rec Talk ]